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View Meghraj Bhagat’s professional. Vessel for all three injectors in CONVERGE CFD software and post-processing of. System, Black Mamba 1.

• Posts about general gaming are not permitted and will be removed • Please flair your submission accordingly. You can do so by simply clicking flair under your link! Hi guys, it's gonna be lengthy but I'm not really sure if I'm the only one facing this problem right now from the latest Mamba.

Basically what happens is that my mouse cursor would stop moving out of a sudden while the Chroma light still keep going. And apart from that, the mouse buttons doesn't work at all and in order to boot it up again, I need to unplug it and plug it back into the USB slot every 5 to 15 minutes because it keeps happening? Anyway, it doesn't happen before I launch any game at all because I could easily browse the web for like an hour without any problem but once I launch MOBA or any other game, it'll freeze up like it's dead. I did found one solution for the time being though, when it freezes up, I plug in my 2013 Deathadder and it'll work like a charm. It doesn't go dead or anything at all if I have my Deathadder plugged in and plug out right away when both mouse could be moved or until I restart my computer and everything repeats again, definitely not the perfect solution at all. Anyway yes, I tried various solution suggested over my course of search in google, uninstalling the device, reinstalling Razer Synapse, Turning ERP mode on and even changing the setting of USB Hub port, needless to say cleaning the laser with q-tip, it's definitely not the mouse being faulty but more like it's incompatible with Windows 10 or maybe my MOBO (Asus Sabertooth Z87) have issue with it?

EDIT: It doesn't move again even after keeping the Deathadder plugged in after an hour while using the Mamba as a main mouse lolwtf.

Love my Razer Mamba. Did a solid review for it for Geek Monthly print mag before they went belly up. I have the EVGA mouse pad but have not opened it.

I am using the giant SteelSeries mouse pad and I vacillate from Coolermaster Sentinel 3G to the Razer Mamba. This is my 2nd Mamba by the way. The charging base died on me after few months. So they sent me a new one just under a year ago. It has been fine since, but I use it exclusively for gaming. One other thing about the Mamba is that the install process is rather goofy. I think its something like install drivers and then update firmware on charging base then install drivers on charging base then install drivers and firmware for mouse.

Not sure if that is the sequence but I remember having the Razer marketing guy walk me through it simply because they didn't want me to write something unsavory about my install experience. Mouse is fantastic, though.

But I am curious how BMW and Thermaltake do with their upcoming. Would go great with my Level 10 PC case.

AlphaNerd Robz360 Bought the XTRAC Ripper XXL and love it. 3 feet wide and 1 1/2 feet tall. Can anyone say landing strip? 36'w x 18'h x 1/8' That is same specs as Micro Center XL Mouse Pad if you have one near you.

I picked mine up for $9.99 regular price at Denver Southern Tech Area Micro Center. Yes, Denver area has a Major Southern and Northern IT Business Community. We also got Baseball/Basketball/Football/Hockey, above average Mile High Ski Country and biggest Bicycle Competitive community in the USA. Coloradans are slim, fit and trim in comparison to most of the country. Much appreciation for this Great State of Colorado, Cheers.

Case-Corsair 800D full tower~LG Bluray Burner. Processor-Intel I7-3770K @4.2GHZ~Lighton Bluray Burner. Motherboard-ASUS P8z77-v Deluxe Memory-G.SKILL Ripjaws x 32GB. DDR3 1600 Dual Channel. GPU-EVGA GTX-TITAN SC x2 in SLI Water cooled EK full XXL blocks. Power Supply-Corsair AX1200 Gold. 1 OCZ VERTEX 4 512GB SSD Boot Drive.1 Crucial M4 128GB SSD cache for Hitachi 2TB storage drive.

1 WD Caviar Black 1-TB. 7200RPM Hard Drive. Intel RTS2011LC Liquid cooling Solution for cpu. Sound Blaster Zx soundcard.

Win.7 64BIT Professional.(Now playing with Win 8.1 to see how i like it.).

I hooked my stick up this weekend. I can also report what Warpig said when you flick the mode switch it does not change the button numbers on the stick in the Windows 7 joystick screen. All I see is each mode button click counts as a button, but it does not change the function of the other buttons on the stick like that diagram shows. That's too bad I was really looking forward to that. Hope this can be sorted out. After much work with Victor and advice from Bourrinopathe, a solution to our wishes has been accomplished. The attached.zip contains my profile, and all the required software/firmware downloads.

You will have to update your firmware before loading the profile, just follow the topic to see how this is all done. There is also some instructions on how to use the software, and how to use it with keyboard inputs. The complete discussion is posted here. Warping, How practical is use the trim knobs - encoders and not analog axis - in Black Mamba base in IL-2: BoS?

The encoders work like a button input by their default config. Meaning that each click on the encoder is another button press.

Example: On my config, RDR Trim will return input #25 for every click left, and #34 for every click right. The push operation is also its own input. Since IL-2 uses button presses rather than axes for trimming, these encoders work great in IL-2. Edited by Warpig, 15 February 2016 - 05:21. Thanks Warpig!

That's good to hear, but reading that thread on the VKB forums I think all those updates and downloads are a bit above my comfort level. I'll wait for an official release that is a bit easier to download and install.

The encoders work great, they will be great to use for trim. You can also push them in for another button press, this will work great for reset trim buttons. After mounting my stick the encoder on the bottom left side of the stick is kinda hard to reach because it's under the 2 analog trim knobs but the encoders on the front and back and very easy to reach. Thanks Warpig!

That's good to hear, but reading that thread on the VKB forums I think all those updates and downloads are a bit above my comfort level. I'll wait for an official release that is a bit easier to download and install. Maybe a quick step-by-step summary will make it easier. With my attached file, the downloads you need are all in one spot already. I know on the discussion, there were multiple version downloads and some resulting troubleshooting involved.

This will avoid all that. Step 1: Download the from my earlier post. Keep them all in the same folder, like they are. Step 2: Run VKBDevCfg-C_0.76.3.8.exe to save your default config. Select your device on the top window. Choose Save button on the Action tab will allow you to save parameters to file.

Choose the folder and set file name in standard Windows dialog window. By default configuration file name extension is cfg. Do not change it. Step 3: Update Firmware. If you have T-Rudder pedals, I would suggest to unplug them first for this part, just so you don't get the devices confused. Run VKBDevCfg-C_0.76.3.8.exe, select joystick name in the list.

Press Bootloader button on Tools tab. You will see firmware upgrade utility window. Browse to the _MambaFat_v1_75_5.vkb file.

Press Flash it! You will see the device disconnect. After it is all done, physically disconnect and reconnect your device. After that, you should see it reappear in the device section.

For troubleshooting refer to Victor's controller.pdf if there's any difficulties with this part. Step 4: Run VKBDevCfg-C_0.76.3.8.exe to load the new profile. Select your device on the top window. Choose Load on the Action tab, browse to _mamba_w_shifts.cfg profile 3. Choose Set on Action tab. After that, you should be good to go. I will admit, the software was intimidating at first.

With the directions that Victor wrote on of the original discussion, I dove in and spent a good part of my day trying things, and eventually getting what I wanted out of it. After one day of tinkering, I am no longer apprehensive to use the software. What helped me the most, was making a to visually map out the input results as I switched things around. Also very important, using the Poll checkbox on the Physical layer window will allow you to hit a button and indicate which tile it is located on. Note: Any change you make will not work until you use the Set button on the Action tab. Edited by Warpig, 29 February 2016 - 22:31.

Curious as to what everyone's joystick settings are in game with their Fat Black Mamba III's? No doubt this stick is SO precise I'm not used to that in IL2 and Warthunder right now, but I also don't want to limit my planes performance by adding too much of a deadzone, filter, or lowering sensitivity? What do you guys use? Right now I have everything maxed out and I'm getting used to moving the stick much less and finding I have a lot of control I love it, but just want to make sure there's not a better way.

Curious as to what everyone's joystick settings are in game with their Fat Black Mamba III's? No doubt this stick is SO precise I'm not used to that in IL2 and Warthunder right now, but I also don't want to limit my planes performance by adding too much of a deadzone, filter, or lowering sensitivity? What do you guys use? Right now I have everything maxed out and I'm getting used to moving the stick much less and finding I have a lot of control I love it, but just want to make sure there's not a better way. I can only speak for War Thunder, I haven't set it up in IL-2 yet. First off, it is taking some getting used to.

The stick is so reactive, that I have minor osculation on the pitch axis. This is something that I think I'll be able to remedy with more use. I am currently using the detented cams, so it is easy for me to find center, and I prefer a solid center to relax my hand on sense my stick is to the side of me. This probably also allows me to be more stable in the pitch axis rather than the smooth cams. I also just switched to the heaviest spring for the pitch axis, and this also helped reduce osculation. For the roll axis, I find the default medium tension spring feels just right. For pitch sensitivity I am using 44%.

I might try something lower, but I'm giving this setting a chance. I don't want to remove too much sensitivity.

For roll I use 100% sensitivity. I don't use any deadzones, or nonlinearity on any axis. Edited by Warpig, 01 April 2016 - 17:58.